Edmonton Perogies: More Than Just a Dumpling, It's the City's Soul

In Edmonton, the perogy is not just food; it's a currency of comfort, a symbol of heritage, and the delicious result of a history deeply kneaded into the city's soil.

 

These humble dumplings, known as pyrohy or varenyky in Ukrainian, represent a direct link to the waves of immigrants who settled the vast prairies surrounding the city starting in the late 1890s.

 

What began as peasant food, a way to make simple ingredients like potatoes, flour, and cheese go a long way, has become an undisputed icon of Edmonton's culinary scene.

 

The story of Edmonton perogies is inseparable from the story of Ukrainian settlement in Alberta.

 

The first Ukrainian settlers arrived northeast of Edmonton in 1892, establishing what would become the largest Ukrainian bloc settlement in Canada.

 

They brought with them their resilience, their faith, and their recipes.

 

These recipes were lifelines, preserving culture and creating community in a new, often harsh, environment.

 

Today, that legacy is alive and bubbling in pots of boiling water all across the city.

 

 

The Heartbeat of the Community: Church Perogies

 

Long before perogies graced the menus of contemporary restaurants, they were the domain of the Baba, the Ukrainian grandmother, and the church basement.

 

Community halls at places like St. John's Ukrainian Orthodox Cathedral and St. Michael's Ukrainian Orthodox Church are hallowed ground for perogy lovers.

 

Here, the tradition of the “perogy bee” is a testament to community strength and culinary tradition.

 

Volunteers, often seniors carrying on generations of knowledge, gather to pinch thousands upon thousands of perogies by hand.

 

It’s a social event, a fundraiser, and a cultural preservation effort all rolled into one.

 

The process is a well-oiled machine: some prepare the dough, others scoop the filling, classic potato and cheddar, cottage cheese and dill, or savoury sauerkraut, while the most experienced hands do the pinching, ensuring a perfect seal.

 

These perogies, sold by the dozen in frozen bags, become freezer staples for countless Edmonton families.

 

Paired with Ukrainian sausage from local institutions like Stawnichy's Mundare Sausage, they form the backbone of holiday meals and quick weeknight dinners.

 

Monthly pyrohy suppers, often all-you-can-eat affairs, are legendary events that draw huge crowds, selling out halls and offering a taste of authentic, homemade comfort.

 

 

From Traditional to Trendsetting: Edmonton's Perogy Hotspots

 

While the church basement remains a vital source, Edmonton's restaurant scene has fully embraced the perogy, showcasing its versatility.

 

For decades, family-run businesses have been serving up authentic Ukrainian food that tastes just like Baba used to make.

 

Restaurants like Shumka Ukrainian Foods, a family business since 1975, and Uncle Ed's Ukrainian Restaurant have become landmarks, renowned for their consistent quality and traditional recipes.

 

Yo Baba, formerly Sandy's Ukrainian Foods, is another beloved spot, offering hand-pinched perogies that keep customers coming back for their authentic taste.

 

But the perogy is not stuck in the past.

 

A new generation of chefs and entrepreneurs is re-imagining the classic dumpling.

 

You can now find gourmet versions with inventive fillings, crispy fried perogies loaded with toppings, and even options catering to modern dietary needs.

 

Businesses like Pierogerie Polish Foods Inc. are focusing on organic ingredients, bringing a farm-to-table ethos to the beloved dish.

 

Meanwhile, places like DON'YA Ukraine's Kitchen are creating social enterprises, providing employment for recent newcomers from Ukraine and allowing them to share their culinary heritage while rebuilding their lives in Edmonton.

 

This beautiful exchange demonstrates the perogy's enduring power to connect cultures and build community.

 

Even food trucks and modern eateries feature perogies, sometimes with a fusion twist that introduces the comfort food to a whole new audience.

 

 

A Living History Lesson

 

To truly understand the depth of this culinary tradition, a visit to the Ukrainian Cultural Heritage Village, located just east of Edmonton, is essential.

 

This open-air museum brings the story of Ukrainian settlement to life, with costumed interpreters recreating the daily lives of pioneers.

 

Here, you can see firsthand how these early settlers lived, farmed, and cooked.

 

And, of course, you can sample authentic Ukrainian food, including some of the best perogies you’ll ever taste, made using traditional methods.

 

The village offers workshops where visitors can even learn to make perogies themselves, connecting them directly to the food and the history it represents.

 

It’s a powerful reminder that every plate of perogies served in Edmonton is part of a much larger story, one of hardship, perseverance, and the creation of a vibrant community.

 

The simple act of pinching dough around a potato filling is an act of remembrance.

 

Whether purchased frozen from a church, enjoyed in a family-run diner, or experienced at a cultural festival, Edmonton perogies are more than a meal.

 

They are a taste of home, a pillar of the local economy, and the enduring soul of the city.

 

They are a tradition served hot, smothered in sour cream and fried onions, and shared with love.

 

Our reader's frequently asked questions

 

Where can I buy the best homemade perogies in Edmonton?

 

Many locals swear by the perogies sold at Ukrainian churches like St. John's Ukrainian Orthodox Cathedral or St. Basil's Cultural Centre. For restaurant-quality, spots like Yo Baba, Shumka, and Uncle Ed's are consistently rated among the best for authentic, handmade perogies.

 

What is a perogy bee?

 

A perogy bee is a community gathering, typically held at a church or cultural hall, where volunteers come together to make thousands of perogies by hand. These events are often fundraisers and a way to preserve traditional food-making skills while fostering community spirit.

 

Are there gluten-free perogies available in Edmonton?

 

Yes, as dietary needs have evolved, several Edmonton businesses now offer gluten-free perogies. Places like DON'YA Ukraine's Kitchen and Yo Baba provide gluten-free options so everyone can enjoy this classic Edmonton comfort food.